Iberian Peninsula (Moorish origin)
The almond arrived in Iberia with the Moors and became the defining nut of both Spanish and Portuguese cooking — used as thickener (in picada, romesco, marzipan), as a sauce base (ajoblanco, ajo blanco), as a confection coating (turron, pasteles de almendra), as a structural ingredient in cakes (tarta de Santiago, toucinho do céu), and as a flavouring for spirits (Amaretto, licor de almendra). No Iberian ingredient spans sweet and savoury applications more completely. The technique of frying almonds in oil before grinding — used in both Spanish picada and Moroccan charmoula — intensifies the nut's natural oils and darkens the flavour. Blanching and peeling (used for ajoblanco and marzipan) produces a clean, white, delicate flavour. Raw almonds (in romesco) provide a different, grainier texture.
Fry for savoury applications (picada, romesco) — the toasted oil-fried almond carries more intensity. Blanch for dessert and cold applications (ajoblanco, marzipan) — the raw white almond is delicate. Marcona almonds (the Spanish fat, round variety) are superior for most Iberian preparations — their higher oil content and rounder flavour is the standard. Store whole, raw almonds and grind as needed — pre-ground almond flour oxidises quickly.
The Marcona almond from Valencia and Catalonia is geographically protected and genuinely different from Californian almonds. For professional kitchens, toast and grind small batches of almonds fresh for each service — the difference in flavour versus pre-ground is significant. Almond milk (leche de almendras) was the medieval standard dairy substitute in Al-Andalus — it is the origin of horchata.
Using pre-ground almond flour for applications that require freshly ground nuts — the oxidised oils produce a stale, flat flavour. Substituting blanched almonds for raw in picada — the texture is different. Using non-Marcona almonds and expecting the same result — the variety matters.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden