The andouille de Val-d’Ajol is one of France’s most distinctive charcuterie products: a large, smoked tripe sausage from the village of Val-d’Ajol in the Vosges mountains of Lorraine, celebrated annually at the Fête des Andouilles (Tripe Sausage Festival) held since 1831, the oldest gastronomy festival in the Vosges. Unlike the andouille de Vire from Normandy (which uses the entire digestive tract and is eaten cold), the andouille de Val-d’Ajol uses only select portions of pork stomach and intestines, is smoked over juniper and beechwood, and is typically served warm, grilled or pan-fried. The preparation begins with meticulous cleaning: the tripe pieces are washed in multiple changes of water, then simmered in a court-bouillon with white wine, vinegar, onions, carrots, and a bouquet garni for 3-4 hours until tender. The cooked tripe is drained, cut into long strips of 1-2cm width, and seasoned with salt, pepper, shallots, and parsley. These strips are layered inside natural casings (the largest available pork casings, or beef runners), packed tightly, and tied at both ends. The stuffed sausages are then cold-smoked over a mixture of juniper branches and beechwood shavings for 5-8 days, during which they develop their signature smoky-gamey flavour and dark exterior. To serve, the andouille is either gently poached in water for 20-25 minutes (just to heat through, as it is already cooked) and served sliced with mashed potatoes, or cut into thick slices (1.5cm) and grilled over charcoal or pan-fried in butter until the surface caramelises and the interior is heated through. The texture when sliced reveals a beautiful mosaic of layered tripe strips in shades of cream and gold, the smoky aroma intense and complex. A strong Dijon mustard and a green salad dressed in walnut oil are the obligatory accompaniments.
Select pork stomach and intestines only. Simmer tripe 3-4 hours until tender. Cut into strips, season, stuff into natural casings. Cold smoke over juniper and beech 5-8 days. Serve warm: poached, grilled, or pan-fried. Accompany with strong mustard.
A splash of Mirabelle eau-de-vie in the seasoning mixture adds a uniquely Lorraine aromatic. When grilling, brush with a little goose fat for extra richness and to prevent sticking. The sliced andouille makes an excellent component in a warm potato salad with a vinaigrette dressing.
Insufficient cleaning of the tripe. Not simmering the tripe long enough before stuffing. Hot smoking instead of cold smoking (changes the texture entirely). Overcooking during the final heating (it’s already cooked; just warm through). Serving without mustard.
La Cuisine Lorraine (Colette Guillemard)