The Abruzzese highlands — the pastures of the Gran Sasso and the Maiella mountains. The transumanza (seasonal migration of sheep herds between the Abruzzo mountains and the Apulian Tavoliere plains) established the sheep culture that produced arrosticini as the shepherd's portable feast.
Arrosticini are the definitive Abruzzese lamb skewers: cubed castrato (castrated male sheep), cut small (1.5cm cubes), threaded tightly onto narrow squared wooden skewers and cooked over a specialised long, narrow charcoal grill (the fornacella or rustella) in dozens simultaneously. The key details are all specific: castrato, not lamb — the more mature, flavoursome meat of a castrated sheep, typically 18-24 months old; the small, uniform cube size; the tight threading with fat and muscle alternating; the specific charcoal grill designed for the skewer format.
Castrato has a depth of flavour that lamb cannot match — more complex, with a mineral richness from the mature animal's diet of mountain pasture. The internal fat bastes from within as it melts. Charcoal adds a smoke note that is the third flavour alongside meat and fat. Salt is the only seasoning because nothing else is needed.
The meat must be castrato — not lamb (agnello). The fat distribution in castrated male sheep is different from lamb, with more marbling and a distinct flavour depth. Cubes must be uniform: 1.5 × 1.5cm, with one piece of internal fat threaded between every two pieces of lean meat — the fat bastes the lean during grilling. The fornacella (a long, narrow, cast-iron charcoal grill sized for the skewers) cooks 30-50 skewers simultaneously, rotating the block of skewers together by turning the whole rack. High heat, brief time: 4-5 minutes total. Serve 10-20 per person, with bread.
The Abruzzese eat arrosticini by holding the last skewer end, pulling the meat off the stick with their teeth. This is not optional — it is the technique. They are seasoned only with salt, after grilling, and sometimes dipped in olive oil. No sauce, no accompaniment beyond bread. The charcoal flavour is essential — arrosticini cooked on gas are a different, lesser thing.
Using lamb instead of castrato — the flavour is completely different and flatter. Cutting cubes too large — they don't cook through in the brief grill time. Not alternating fat and lean — the lean dries out without the internal fat basting. Cooking on a wide grill — the narrow fornacella concentrates the heat; a wide grill disperses it and the arrosticini dry out.
Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina; Ada Boni, La Cucina Regionale Italiana