Setúbal and Alentejo coast, Portugal
One of the most prized Portuguese arroz dishes — short-grain rice cooked in a concentrated shellfish broth with fresh razor clams (lingueirão), finished with cilantro and olive oil. The razor clam has an extraordinarily sweet, intense flavour unlike any other bivalve — it takes its name from the straight-edged razor it resembles — and its liquor is among the most concentrated of all shellfish cooking liquids. The technique requires the razor clams to be opened first to collect their liquor, which forms the base of the stock. The clam flesh is added back only in the final minutes to prevent overcooking. The dish should be loose — almost wet — with the rice carrying the concentrated shellfish flavour.
Open razor clams in a hot pan with a splash of wine — save every drop of liquor. Remove the clam meat and reserve. Use the liquor as the base for the stock. Build the sofrito, add the diluted liquor and additional shellfish stock, cook the rice. Return the razor clam meat in the last 2-3 minutes only. Finish with cilantro and olive oil. Serve immediately.
Razor clams must be purchased live — they are either standing upright in their shells (alive) or have retreated deep into the shell (stressed or dying). Dead razor clams smell intensely and should be discarded. The Alentejo and Setúbal coast produce the finest Portuguese razor clams. Some versions add a small amount of cream at the end — this rounds the flavour but is not traditional. Pair with white Alentejano or Alvarinho.
Discarding the razor clam liquor — this is the entire flavour of the dish. Overcooking the clam meat — it toughens in 2 minutes past its peak. Under-seasoning — razor clam liquor is sweet, not salty, and needs confident seasoning.
My Portugal by George Mendes