Portugal
The definitive Portuguese rice dish — duck legs braised until the meat falls from the bone, the braising liquid used to cook short-grain rice with chouriço, and the cooked rice returned to a high oven to form a caramelised top crust. It is simultaneously a braise, a rice pilaf, and a gratin — three techniques in one dish, producing a result of extraordinary depth. The caramelised top crust is the definitive characteristic — the rice grains on the surface caramelise and crisp in the oven's heat while the interior remains moist and flavoured from the duck braising liquid. Slices of chouriço are arranged across the top before baking, adding smoke and paprika to the surface crust.
Braise the duck legs until very tender in wine, aromatics, and stock — 1.5-2 hours. Reserve the braising liquid. Shred the duck meat from the bone. Cook the rice in the strained, defatted braising liquid (rice ratio: 1:2 rice to liquid). Combine shredded duck with the rice. Transfer to a baking dish, arrange chouriço slices on top, bake at 220°C for 20-25 minutes until the top is golden and crisp.
The braising liquid from duck legs is one of the most intensely flavoured cooking liquids available — use every drop. The dish can be prepared up to the oven stage and held at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking. For service, portion into squares and serve with a simple green salad and white Dão or red Alentejano.
Under-braising the duck — the meat must be fall-apart tender. Not defatting the braising liquid — the rice becomes greasy. Skipping the oven stage — the caramelised top is non-negotiable. Using the wrong rice — must be short-grain (carolino) to achieve the correct starchy texture.
My Portugal by George Mendes