Portugal (coastal)
The monkfish rice of Portugal — one of the most celebrated arroz dishes, made from a combination of monkfish (tamboril), shellfish (clams, prawns), and short-grain rice in a rich tomato and shellfish stock. Tamboril is prized for its firm, dense, sweet flesh and the extraordinary gelatin it releases during cooking — which thickens the rice to a creaminess that no other fish achieves. The technique combines elements of a seafood braise and a pilaf: the monkfish is first sautéed briefly to develop colour, removed, the base is built, the rice is added and cooked in the fish stock, and the fish returns only at the end for the final 5 minutes.
Build the stock from the monkfish head and carcass, prawn shells, and white wine — this is the foundation. Sauté the monkfish pieces briefly in olive oil and remove before building the sofrito base. The rice is added to the finished sofrito and the stock is added hot. The tamboril returns for the last 5-7 minutes only. The finished dish should be loose — wet enough to pour slowly, not dry.
The monkfish head makes an extraordinary stock — richer and more gelatinous than most fish stocks. Ask the fishmonger to include it. A splash of brandy in the sofrito before adding the rice adds complexity. Finish with cilantro and good olive oil. Pair with white Alvarinho or Douro white wine.
Overcooking the monkfish — it toughens. Adding monkfish too early — it will be leather by the time the rice is ready. Weak stock — the stock must be rich and concentrated. Not adding the clams in the last 3-4 minutes — they will be rubbery if added earlier.
My Portugal by George Mendes