Porto, Portugal
Porto's definitive bacalhau preparation — named for José Luís Gomes de Sá, a 19th-century merchant who created the recipe in the kitchens of the Restaurante Lisbonense in Oporto. Layers of desalted bacalhau, boiled potato, and onion are arranged in an earthenware dish, covered in olive oil, and baked until everything is tender and fragrant. The finishing garnish is hard-boiled egg, black olives, and parsley. Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is distinguished from other bacalhau bakes by its specific sequence and the technique of soaking the shredded cod in hot milk before layering — this produces exceptional creaminess and removes the last of any excessive salinity.
Soak the desalted shredded cod in hot (not boiling) milk for 30-60 minutes — this step is non-negotiable. Sauté onions in olive oil until soft and golden. Layer: onion, cod, potato, onion, cod, potato. Cover everything with olive oil — be generous. Bake at 200°C for 25-30 minutes. The dish should be moist, not dry.
The black olives garnish should be Portuguese varieties — Azeitona da Conserva, Galega — not generic black olives. The hard-boiled egg is sliced or quartered and laid on top at service. Some Porto versions add a sprinkle of pimentón. Pair with a white Douro or Alvarinho.
Skipping the milk soak — the texture becomes dryer and the cod flavour less integrated. Under-oiling — the dish dries out in the oven. Overcooking — the potato should be tender but not disintegrating. Not using enough onion — the onion is a flavour vehicle, not a minor ingredient.
My Portugal by George Mendes