Basilicata — the baccalà tradition in the Lucano interior reflects the absence of fresh fish in a landlocked region. The Senise pepper cultivation (the famous peperone di Senise IGP) makes the Lucano preparation specifically identifiable. The preparation is most associated with the Potenza and Matera provinces.
Baccalà alla lucana is the salt cod preparation of the Basilicata interior — a landlocked region where baccalà (salt-dried cod) was historically the only fish available. The Lucano preparation combines rehydrated baccalà with sweet and hot dried peppers (the Senise peperoni cruschi are ideal), preserved tomato (estratto di pomodoro, the concentrated Lucano sun-dried tomato paste), black olives, and capers in a single pan braise. The dried peppers reconstituted in warm water provide a sweet, slightly smoky note that is the Basilicata fingerprint in this preparation. It is a cucina povera masterpiece — the preserved ingredients of the Lucano pantry combined into a preparation of considerable complexity.
Baccalà alla lucana in the pan has a sauce of remarkable depth — the concentrated tomato, sweet dried peppers, black olives, and capers create a complex agro-salato-dolce balance. The baccalà, desalted and gently simmered, has a texture that is firm but yielding, with the skin gelatinising into the sauce. With dense Lucano bread to absorb the sauce, it is one of the most satisfying cucina povera fish preparations.
Desalt baccalà 48 hours in cold water changed 3-4 times. Cut into large pieces (maintain the skin — it provides gelatin during cooking). Dust lightly with flour; pan-fry in abundant olive oil until golden on both sides. Remove. In the same oil, fry reconstituted Senise pepper slices (or sweet dried pepper) briefly; add crushed tomato or estratto di pomodoro, black olives, capers, and a little peperoncino. Return baccalà; simmer gently covered 15-20 minutes until the sauce has thickened and the baccalà is cooked through. The baccalà should remain in pieces — do not stir aggressively.
Estratto di pomodoro (sun-dried Lucano tomato paste, concentrated beyond commercial tomato purée) is available from Lucano producers online and at Italian specialty shops — it adds an intensity of tomato flavour that commercial concentrates cannot approach. The combination of salt cod, sweet dried peppers, and concentrated tomato paste is specifically Lucano and produces a sauce of considerable complexity from simple ingredients.
Insufficient desalting — 48 hours minimum; baccalà that is still heavily salted dominates every other flavour. Over-cooking the baccalà — it becomes fibrous and dry; 15-20 minutes gentle simmering is the maximum. Missing the Senise dried peppers — the Lucano character of this preparation comes from the sweet dried peppers; without them it is a generic southern Italian baccalà.
Slow Food Editore, Basilicata in Cucina; Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane