Molise interior — the baccalà tradition of the Apennine mountains (far from fresh fish) reflects the Mediterranean pattern of dried fish preservation enabling fish protein consumption throughout the interior. The dried pepper enrichment is specifically Molisano.
Despite Molise's small Adriatic coastline, salt cod (baccalà) is one of the most important proteins of the Molisan table — a preserved food that kept through the mountain winters when fresh fish was unavailable. Baccalà alla molisana is the characteristic interior preparation (distinct from the coastal preparations): salt cod, soaked 24-48 hours until desalted and softened, baked or braised with preserved Molisano peperoni (sweet or moderately hot dried peppers), black olives, capers, olive oil, and tomato. The dried pepper enrichment is specifically Molisano — the dried peperoni of the Molise interior (particularly from the Campobasso and Isernia areas) have a sweet-smoky concentration that fresh pepper cannot replicate.
Baccalà alla molisana has a complex flavour from the convergence of preserved ingredients — the desalted cod is sweet and yielding; the dried peppers are sweet-smoky and slightly intense; the olives add salt and bitterness; the capers add sharpness. The olive oil binds everything. It is the taste of the preserved Mediterranean pantry, assembled intelligently.
Soak the baccalà in cold water for 24-48 hours (changing water every 8-12 hours) until the salt is at the desired level — taste to check. Pat completely dry. The Molisano dried peppers (peperoni secchi) must be rehydrated separately in warm water for 20 minutes, then cut into strips. Brown the baccalà pieces briefly in olive oil — golden on the surface. In the same pan, add the rehydrated pepper strips, black olives (Gaeta or similar), capers, crushed tomato, and a small amount of the pepper soaking liquid (for flavour). Braise together over low heat for 20-25 minutes until the baccalà is completely tender and the sauce has unified.
The Molisano dried sweet peppers (peperoni cruschi of the adjacent Basilicata and the related varieties of Molise) can be rehydrated as described, or briefly fried in hot olive oil until crisp and used as a garnish. The fried crisp pepper strips over the braised baccalà provide textural contrast. The capers balance the sweetness of the peppers.
Under-soaking the baccalà — excess salt makes the finished dish unpalatable. Not drying completely before browning — moisture causes steaming rather than searing. Adding the dried pepper soaking liquid without tasting — it can be very intense; add in small amounts.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Elizabeth David, Italian Food