Baccalà alla vicentina is one of Veneto's most iconic dishes—salt cod (or more precisely, stoccafisso—air-dried, not salt-cured, cod) slowly braised in milk with onions, anchovies, Parmigiano, and olive oil until it collapses into a creamy, unctuous preparation served over polenta. The dish is the signature of Vicenza, where it inspires a fanatical devotion codified by the Confraternita del Bacalà alla Vicentina (Brotherhood of Baccalà alla Vicentina), a confraternity dedicated to preserving the canonical recipe. Confusingly, Vicentini call their dish 'baccalà' even though they use stoccafisso (stockfish—air-dried cod) rather than true baccalà (salt-cured cod)—a linguistic anomaly that has confused outsiders for centuries. The preparation begins days in advance: the stoccafisso is soaked in cold water for 3-4 days, changing the water daily, until it rehydrates and softens. The soaked fish is cleaned, boned, and cut into pieces, then layered in a casserole with sliced onions softened in olive oil, anchovy fillets (which melt and add invisible depth), milk, grated Parmigiano, parsley, and a generous amount of olive oil. The casserole is sealed and cooked at the lowest possible heat for 4-5 hours, during which the fish slowly disintegrates into the sauce, the milk and oil emulsify, and the whole assembly transforms into a creamy, ivory-coloured preparation that clings to the spoon. The result should be smooth, rich, and deeply savoury—the cod's protein-rich flesh having absorbed the milk and oil into something approaching a savoury cream. It is always served with polenta—either soft or grilled—which acts as the starch vehicle for the rich fish cream.
Use stoccafisso (air-dried cod), soaked 3-4 days. Layer with onion, anchovy, milk, Parmigiano, olive oil. Cook at lowest heat for 4-5 hours until fish disintegrates. Result should be creamy and smooth. Always serve with polenta.
Change the soaking water twice daily. The fish should be fully rehydrated—it should bend without resistance. The very low cooking temperature is critical—the casserole should barely murmur. Some Vicentini add a small amount of butter at the end for extra creaminess. The dish is even better reheated the next day.
Insufficient soaking (fish remains tough and salty). Using salt cod instead of stockfish (different texture). Cooking at too high temperature. Stirring too frequently (let it cook undisturbed). Not enough olive oil (it's a primary ingredient, not a cooking medium).
Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking; Confraternita del Bacalà alla Vicentina