Venice, Veneto. A cicchetti tradition of the bacari (wine bars) of the Rialto and the calli of Venice. The salt cod trade was central to Venetian commerce from the 15th century and mantecato is the definitive Venetian expression of that ingredient.
Baccalà mantecato is a Venetian cicchetti classic: desalted salt cod (baccalà, not stoccafisso) poached until tender, then beaten vigorously with olive oil drizzled in a thin stream until it becomes a smooth, creamy, white mousse — the 'mantecatura' (creaming) technique that is the same word used for finishing risotto. Served at room temperature on small slices of grilled or toasted white polenta. The texture should be light and spreadable, not heavy — the olive oil must be completely emulsified.
Properly emulsified, the mantecato is light, creamy, mildly salty, with a clean fish flavour that is never aggressive. The olive oil provides fat and a subtle fruitiness. On polenta, the slight bitterness of the grilled polenta crust balances the richness of the cod. A dish of deceptive simplicity and skill.
Baccalà must be fully desalted: 48-72 hours in cold water changed every 8-12 hours. Poach the desalted cod gently in plain water with bay leaf until just flaking — do not boil or the fish will tighten. Remove skin and bones while still warm. Place warm fish in a bowl or stand mixer and beat on medium speed while adding olive oil in a thin, continuous stream — exactly like making mayonnaise. The warm fish is the emulsifier; the oil must go in gradually or the emulsion breaks. A small amount of the poaching liquid loosens the final texture.
The mantecatura can be done in a stand mixer (paddle attachment, medium speed) or by hand with an energetic wooden spoon and forearm strength. It takes 5-10 minutes. The finished mousse should be white-ivory, light, and spread like butter. Serve on white polenta cut into squares and grilled or on crostini. Garnish with a drizzle of oil and a leaf of fresh parsley — this is cichetti presentation.
Adding the oil too fast — the emulsion breaks and you have oily shredded fish, not a cream. Using cold fish — warm fish is the emulsifier; cold fish cannot form a stable emulsion. Using standard supermarket olive oil — the flavour is too assertive; use a neutral, light Venetian or Ligurian oil. Not seasoning at the end — the desalted fish is bland and needs white pepper, lemon, and sometimes fresh parsley.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Russell Norman, Polpo: A Venetian Cookbook