Baci di dama—'lady's kisses'—are the elegant sandwich cookies of Piedmont, specifically the town of Tortona, consisting of two small, round, crumbly hazelnut (or almond) cookies joined by a thin layer of dark chocolate. The name refers to their appearance: the two rounded cookie halves pressed together with chocolate resemble a pair of lips meeting in a kiss. These diminutive confections (each complete bacio is barely 3cm across) are among Piedmont's most refined pastry creations, balancing the region's hazelnut tradition with its chocolate heritage in a single, two-bite package. The dough is equal parts ground hazelnuts (Tonda Gentile delle Langhe, naturally), butter, sugar, and flour—a ratio that produces an extraordinarily tender, crumbly texture that shatters at first bite. The ground hazelnuts must be very fine—almost a flour—to achieve the smooth, even dome shape when piped or hand-rolled. Small balls of dough are placed on baking sheets and baked at moderate heat until just barely golden—overbaking makes them hard rather than crumbly. Once cooled, a small dot of melted dark chocolate is placed on the flat side of one cookie, and a second cookie is pressed gently against it, the chocolate acting as both adhesive and flavour bridge. The finished baci must rest until the chocolate sets completely. The eating experience is a precisely engineered sequence: the initial crumble of the hazelnut cookie, the smooth ribbon of chocolate in the centre, then the second cookie dissolving on the tongue. These are biscotti da tè (tea biscuits)—meant to accompany a mid-afternoon espresso or a glass of Moscato d'Asti.
Equal parts ground hazelnuts, butter, sugar, flour. Bake until barely golden—not brown. Join two halves with a dot of dark chocolate. Small size—each bacio barely 3cm. Let chocolate set completely before serving. Texture should be crumbly, not crunchy.
Chill the dough for 30 minutes before shaping—it firms up and is easier to handle. Toast hazelnuts before grinding for deeper flavour. Use high-quality dark chocolate (70%) for the filling. The cookies keep well in a tin for a week. A dusting of powdered sugar is the only acceptable decoration.
Over-baking (should be barely golden, not brown). Making too large. Using grainy nut meal (must be very finely ground). Chocolate too thick between halves. Not chilling the dough before shaping (too sticky).
Carol Field, The Italian Baker; Giovanni Goria, La Cucina del Piemonte