Salt-crust baking encases a whole scaled fish (classically loup de mer/bar, sea bream, or red snapper) in a thick shell of coarse salt bound with egg whites, creating a sealed oven within an oven. The salt crust insulates the fish, maintaining a stable internal environment of approximately 100°C regardless of the oven temperature (typically 200-220°C). The fish effectively steam-cooks inside its own moisture, emerging supremely moist, perfectly seasoned (the skin acts as a barrier — the flesh absorbs only subtle salinity), and dramatically presented. The crust composition: 2kg coarse sea salt per 1kg fish, bound with 2-3 egg whites and optionally perfumed with herbs (thyme, bay, fennel fronds, star anise) and citrus zest mixed into the salt. Spread a 1cm layer of salt mixture on a parchment-lined sheet pan, lay the fish (scales on, cavity stuffed with herbs and lemon), and pack the remaining salt firmly over the top, ensuring no flesh is exposed. The egg whites act as a binding agent — when heated, the albumin sets, hardening the salt into a solid ceramic-like shell. A 1.2kg whole sea bass requires 25-30 minutes at 220°C; internal temperature should reach 62°C. The salt crust will be rock-hard. Present at the table, crack the crust with the back of a heavy knife, lift the top section in one piece, carefully peel away the skin (which comes off effortlessly, having steamed loose), and portion the pristine white flesh directly from the bone.
Leave scales ON — they form a barrier between salt and flesh, preventing over-seasoning Egg whites bind the salt into a solid shell — without them, the crust crumbles No additional seasoning on the fish exterior — the salt crust provides all necessary salinity through osmotic transfer Stuff the cavity with aromatics — this is where flavour infusion occurs The crust must be fully sealed with no gaps or the steam escapes and the fish dries
Mix dried fennel pollen or lavender into the salt for a Provençal aromatic signature that perfumes the flesh through the skin Insert a probe thermometer through the salt crust before baking — this allows monitoring without breaking the seal Serve with a simple sauce vierge (warm diced tomato, olive oil, basil, lemon) — the pure, clean fish needs only brightness, not richness
Scaling the fish before crusting — without scales, the flesh absorbs excessive salt and becomes inedible Using fine table salt instead of coarse — it packs too densely, creates too much osmotic pressure, and over-seasons Insufficient salt thickness — less than 1cm cracks during baking, releasing steam Overbaking — once the internal temperature exceeds 65°C, the flesh dries despite the moist environment Cracking the crust carelessly and letting salt fragments fall onto the fish
Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire; Larousse Gastronomique