Hazan distinguishes between the raw chopped mixture (battuto — from battere, to beat or chop) and the cooked aromatic base (soffritto). The battuto is the unmade soffritto; the soffritto is the cooked and transformed battuto. This distinction matters because it establishes the Italian kitchen's fundamental organisation: mise en place of the aromatic base precedes every preparation that uses it, and the quality of the chopping determines the uniformity of the cooking.
**The chopping standard:** - All components of the battuto should be cut to the same approximate size — 3–5mm dice - Larger pieces cook slower and produce a coarse soffritto where individual vegetables remain identifiable; smaller pieces cook faster and may burn before the soffritto completes - The traditional mezzaluna (half-moon) chopper produces the correct irregular-but-uniform cut; a food processor produces too fine a cut that releases too much moisture **The role of pancetta in the battuto:** - Many Italian regional preparations include pancetta in the battuto (finely chopped, cooked with the vegetables from the start) - The pancetta's fat renders first, becoming the cooking medium for the vegetables - This fundamentally changes the soffritto's flavour — the pancetta's cured salt, smoke, and fat compounds infuse the base before any vegetables begin their transformation
Hazan