Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province — legend from Zhou Dynasty
Legendary Hangzhou dish of whole marinated chicken wrapped in lotus leaves and clay, then baked in a firepit or oven for 3–4 hours. The clay seals all moisture and fragrance inside, creating an extraordinary steaming-baking environment. Diners crack open the clay at table in a theatrical presentation. Origin story: a beggar who had no cooking equipment wrapped his stolen chicken in mud and buried it in embers.
Incomparable: slow-baked in lotus-perfumed clay creates a concentrated, aromatic steam that permeates every fibre; dramatic and otherworldly flavour
{"Chicken: rub inside and out with soy, Shaoxing wine, five-spice, sesame oil; marinate 12+ hours","Wrap in 3–4 layers of lotus leaves (soaked); then encase in a thick clay casing 2–3cm thick","Bake at high heat (220°C) 30 minutes to set clay, then moderate (180°C) 2.5–3 hours","The clay case will crack from internal steam pressure near end of cooking — this is correct"}
{"Use potters clay or food-safe river clay — not potter's glazed clay","The lotus leaf layer is essential for lotus fragrance — cannot be substituted with aluminium foil for traditional character","Theatrical table-cracking: use a small hammer and crack deliberately at the 'equator' of the clay case"}
{"Insufficient marinating time — clay-baked chicken needs deep seasoning as the clay seals in flavour","Clay case too thin — cracks prematurely and loses the sealed cooking environment","Not soaking lotus leaves — dry leaves burn rather than perfume"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop; Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper — Fuchsia Dunlop