Bibeleskaes (also Bibbelschkäs, meaning ‘little chicken cheese’ in Alsatian dialect — a whimsical name whose origins are debated) is a fresh herb-cheese spread that appears on virtually every Alsatian winstub table as an appetiser or accompaniment: fromage blanc beaten with crème fraîche, garlic, shallots, and a profusion of fresh herbs, served with boiled potatoes and thick-crusted bread. This is the simplest possible preparation and yet, when made with impeccable ingredients, one of the most satisfying. The base is fromage blanc (fresh white cheese, 40% fat content for the right balance of tang and creaminess), beaten smooth with a fork or whisk. To 500g of fromage blanc, add 100ml crème fraîche (for additional richness and smoothness), 1-2 finely minced shallots, 1-2 cloves of garlic minced to a paste with salt, and a generous handful (approximately 50g total) of fresh herbs: chives (the dominant herb, at least half the total), flat-leaf parsley, chervil, and sometimes tarragon, dill, or sorrel depending on the season and the cook’s garden. The herbs must be freshly chopped — dried herbs have no place here. Season generously with salt, white pepper, and a hint of paprika. The mixture is combined gently (overworking makes it gluey) and refrigerated for at least 1 hour for the flavours to meld, though it is best after 4-6 hours. It is served cold in a ceramic bowl alongside hot boiled potatoes in their jackets (pommes de terre en robe des champs), which the diner splits open and fills with spoonfuls of the herb cheese. The temperature contrast of hot potato and cold, herb-fragrant cheese is the entire pleasure. Rye bread or pain de campagne for mopping the bowl is essential. This is the dish that every Alsatian grandmother makes differently and every Alsatian considers their grandmother’s version the definitive one.
Fromage blanc (40% fat) as base. Beaten with crème fraîche. Chives dominant among the fresh herbs. Shallots and garlic minced fine. Rest minimum 1 hour, ideal 4-6 hours. Serve cold with hot boiled potatoes. Fresh herbs only, never dried.
Mince the garlic with a pinch of coarse salt using the flat of a knife to create a smooth paste that distributes evenly. Add a tablespoon of Alsatian Gewurztraminer for a subtle aromatic note. In summer, add a handful of chopped wild garlic (ail des ours) for an extraordinary seasonal version.
Using low-fat fromage blanc (too thin and sour). Over-beating until gluey. Dried herbs instead of fresh. Insufficient salt (the potatoes need the cheese to be well-seasoned). Serving immediately without resting time for flavour melding. Too much garlic, overwhelming the herbs.
La Cuisine Alsacienne (Simone Morgenthaler)