Castel Frentano and Lanciano, Chieti province, Abruzzo. The two traditions — cream-filled (Lanciano) and chocolate-filled (Castel Frentano) — represent different villages' Christmas confectionery traditions within a narrow geographic area.
Bocconotti are individual pastry cases (made from a rich short-crust with lard or olive oil) filled with either pastry cream and jam, or a cooked filling of chocolate, almonds, and jam — depending on whether they come from the Lanciano tradition (cream version) or the Castel Frentano tradition (chocolate version). They are the Christmas confection of the Abruzzese interior and represent the most elaborate pastry tradition of the region.
The lard pastry dissolves on the palate in a way butter pastry does not — lighter, more neutral, allowing the filling to dominate. The Castel Frentano filling (chocolate, almond, cherry jam) is dense and intensely flavoured — bitter chocolate, fruity cherry, roasted almond. The icing sugar provides the only sweetness not in the filling.
The pastry uses lard-based short crust (pasta frolla con strutto) — 500g flour, 200g lard, 2 eggs, 100g sugar, lemon zest. The lard gives a lighter, more crumbly texture than butter short crust. For the bocconotti castelfranche filling: toasted almonds ground coarsely, dark chocolate grated, bitter cherry jam (amarena), and a small amount of amaretto liqueur — combined into a thick, fudgy paste. Fill the pastry cases to the top, cover with a disc of pastry, press the edges together, brush with egg wash, bake at 170°C for 25-30 minutes. Dust with icing sugar when cooled.
The lard-based pastry is the secret — it is notably lighter and more short-crumbed than butter short crust. If lard is unavailable, a 50/50 mix of butter and leaf lard gives an intermediate result. Bocconotti keep for 5-7 days in an airtight container — the filling actually improves after a day as the jam and chocolate flavours marry.
Butter instead of lard — produces a harder, less crumbly pastry that doesn't have the traditional lightness. Over-filling — the filling expands slightly during baking; leave a small margin. Baking at too high a temperature — the pastry browns before the interior sets. Not dusting with icing sugar — part of the traditional presentation.
Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina; Ada Boni, La Cucina Regionale Italiana