Madeira, Portugal
The Christmas cake of Madeira — a dark, dense, highly spiced cake of molasses (mel de cana, sugar cane molasses), flour, butter, lard, spices (cinnamon, cloves, anise, fennel), dried fruits, and nuts, kept for months or years in a cool cellar. Bolo de mel is made in November for Christmas, broken (never sliced — it must be broken by hand) in early January, and the tradition dictates that if any remains from the previous year, it should be finished before the new year's cake is opened. The recipe is unchanged from the 16th century, when sugar cane was Madeira's primary export. The molasses — the by-product of sugar production — went into the bolo that workers took home from the engenhos (sugar mills).
The molasses must be genuine cane molasses (mel de cana), not treacle or golden syrup — the flavour difference is significant. The spice blend is complex and assertive. The cake must be very well wrapped and kept in a cool, dark place — it continues to mature. Do not refrigerate. Break with both hands rather than slicing — the dense, sticky crumb doesn't slice cleanly.
The walnuts and almonds in a bolo de mel can be omitted in a simpler version, but the traditional recipe includes both. A thin slice with salted butter is the traditional serving method. The cake keeps up to 3 years in a cool, dry environment — some Madeiran families have examples 5-10 years old. Pair with Madeira Malmsey (Bual) for a remarkable combination of island tradition.
Substituting golden syrup for molasses — the flavour is completely different. Refrigerating — the texture becomes rubbery. Expecting to eat it immediately — bolo de mel requires at least 2-3 weeks of resting before it reaches full flavour development.
Leite's Culinaria — Portuguese tradition