Valle d'Itria, Puglia — particularly the triangle of Alberobello, Locorotondo, and Cisternino. The bombette tradition is specifically associated with the macellerie-grill tradition of these towns, where the butcher shop sells raw meat for home cooking and simultaneously grills preparations for immediate consumption.
Bombette (little bombs) are the defining street food of the Valle d'Itria in Puglia, particularly associated with the trulli country around Alberobello, Locorotondo, and Cisternino: small rolls of thin-sliced pork shoulder or neck (capocollo), stuffed with a piece of aged Caciocavallo or Canestrato Pugliese cheese, wrapped around a small amount of minced pork and herbs (parsley, black pepper, sometimes a sliver of lardo), secured with a toothpick, and grilled over charcoal until the pork is golden and slightly charred and the cheese inside has melted. They are sold at the macellerie (butcher shops) that double as grill restaurants in the Valle d'Itria.
Bombette from the grill are small, dense parcels — the exterior is charred, fragrant with olive wood smoke, and slightly caramelised from the pork fat. Inside, the cheese (Caciocavallo or Canestrato) has melted into a dense, savoury pool. The pork is juicy and slightly smoky. With a piece of rough bread, bombette are the definitive simple pleasure of the Pugliese countryside.
The pork: thin slices (3-4mm) of capocollo or shoulder — lean enough to roll tightly, with just enough fat to remain juicy on the grill. The filling: a cube of aged Caciocavallo (or Canestrato) about the size of a grape, plus a small amount of loosely mixed pork mince with parsley, black pepper, and salt. Roll tightly — the rolled bombetta should be compact enough to hold its shape during grilling. Secure with a toothpick at both ends. Grill over hot charcoal (or under a very hot grill) for 3-4 minutes per side until the exterior is golden-brown with grill marks and the cheese inside has melted visibly at the seams.
The charcoal grill (brace) is essential for the correct flavour — gas grills produce an inferior result without the smoke. In the macellerie of the Valle d'Itria, bombette are cooked on large grills over olive wood charcoal — the olive wood smoke is part of the flavour. The butcher will often allow customers to choose their own cuts and specify the cheese filling. Eat immediately, standing at the counter.
Cheese too large — a large piece expands when melted and bursts the roll open. Pork sliced too thin — it tears when rolled. Not tightly rolled — loose rolls open during grilling and the cheese spills. Grilling at too-low heat — the pork must sear quickly; low heat dries the exterior before the interior is cooked.
Slow Food Editore, Puglia in Cucina; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy