The bouchée à la reine (‘the queen’s mouthful’) is a large vol-au-vent of puff pastry filled with a creamy ragout of chicken, mushrooms, and quenelles, credited to Marie Leszczyńska, wife of Louis XV and daughter of the Duke of Lorraine, who allegedly requested a dish she could eat in a single, elegant bite at court — though the ‘single bite’ has expanded considerably in modern presentations. This dish bridges the aristocratic courts of Lorraine with the heart of classical French cuisine, and it remains a festive centrepiece in the region, served at Christmas, Easter, and communion celebrations. The vol-au-vent case is cut from pâte feuilletée: two circles of 12-15cm diameter cut from dough rolled to 4mm thickness. The base circle is placed on a baking sheet; the second has a smaller circle cut from its centre (creating a ring), which is affixed to the base with egg wash, forming the walls. The case is egg-washed, chilled, then baked at 210°C for 25-30 minutes until magnificently puffed and golden, the internal pastry scooped out to create a hollow vessel. The ragout filling: poached chicken breast (cut into 1.5cm dice), button mushrooms (turned and cooked à blanc), and optionally small quenelles de veau or sweetbreads, all bound in a velouté enriched with cream and egg yolk liaison. The velouté is made from a light roux thinned with the chicken poaching liquid and mushroom cooking liquor, cooked gently for 20 minutes, strained, then finished with 100ml cream and 2 egg yolks tempered with a ladleful of hot sauce. The filling should be rich but not thick — it must flow slightly when the pastry is cut. The warm filling is spooned into the warm vol-au-vent case, the pastry lid placed on top at a jaunty angle, and served immediately. The contrast between shattering pastry and silken ragout is the entire joy of this dish.
Vol-au-vent case from two circles of puff pastry (base + ring). Bake at 210°C until magnificently puffed. Filling of chicken, mushrooms, optional quenelles in velouté-cream sauce. Egg yolk liaison for richness. Filling should flow slightly, not be thick. Assemble and serve immediately.
Bake the vol-au-vent case slightly darker than you think necessary — it will soften slightly from the filling’s steam. A tablespoon of Vin Jaune or dry sherry in the sauce adds extraordinary complexity. For individual servings, make bouchées of 8cm diameter rather than a single large vol-au-vent.
Vol-au-vent case underbaked (it must be thoroughly golden and crisp). Filling too thick, like a paste rather than a ragout. Egg yolk liaison added at too high a temperature, scrambling. Assembling too far in advance (pastry goes soggy). Using pre-made vol-au-vent cases that are too small.
Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier)