Ancona, Marche. Each Adriatic port has its own brodetto tradition — the Anconetana is the most austere, relying entirely on the fish variety for complexity. The 13-fish tradition is documented from at least the 16th century in Ancona's fishing records.
Brodetto all'Anconetana is the fish stew of Ancona — different from the Pesarese brodetto (which uses saffron and vinegar) and the Rossinese brodetto (minimalist, with vinegar only). The Anconetana version uses 13 types of fish (one for each apostle, with the thirteenth for Judas), cooked in a very simple tomato and olive oil base with no wine, no vinegar, no saffron — just good tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, and the fish. The complexity comes from the variety of fish, not the seasonings.
The concentrated broth of 13 fish species — each contributing different gelatins, fats, and minerals — creates a complexity that no single-species fish stew can achieve. The minimal seasoning (tomato, garlic, olive oil) frames rather than masks this complexity. This is Mediterranean fishing-culture cooking at its most sophisticated simplicity.
The traditional 13 species include: scorpionfish, gurnard, John Dory, sea bass, sea bream, cuttlefish, squid, sole, mullet, shrimp, clams, mussels, and a 13th seasonal fish. Each species has a different cooking time; the sequence is: cephalopods first (10-12 minutes), firm white fish second (8 minutes), shellfish and delicate fish last (5 minutes). The broth is built from the cooking liquid of the fish — it should not be diluted with extra stock. Never stir — agitate the pot by shaking. Serve in the pot with toasted bread.
Begin with the cephalopod cooking liquid as the flavour base — the cuttlefish and squid ink and gelatin create a richly flavoured broth that carries all the subsequent fish. Serve from the pot at the table — ladling the stew from the pot is part of the ritual. The toast should be rubbed with garlic and placed in the bowl, not floated on top.
Adding all fish simultaneously — different species will be either raw or overcooked. Stirring the pot — the fish break apart. Using canned tomatoes instead of fresh (in season) or good passata — the tomato is one of only three flavourings; quality matters. Reducing the variety of fish — the depth of the broth comes from the number of species.
Elizabeth David, Italian Food; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina