Ancona, Marche
The Anconese fish stew demands precisely 13 different species of fish and shellfish — a folkloric tradition that reflects the abundance of the central Adriatic. The base is a sauté of olive oil, garlic, and white wine vinegar (not wine — the vinegar is the Anconetano signature), into which species are added in order of cooking time: firm (monkfish, scorpionfish) first, then delicate (sole, mullet), then shellfish at the end. No tomato — the broth is clear and the vinegar-forward character sets it apart from the Vastese or Livornese versions.
Clear, vinegar-bright broth with 13 layers of seafood character — each species contributing its own texture while sharing the sharp Anconetano brine that defines the Adriatic coast
{"White wine vinegar is mandatory — substitute with wine and you make a different dish","Species added in reverse order of robustness: firmest flesh first (30 min), softest last (5 min)","No tomato in the Anconetana version — tomato is only used in the southern Marchigiano brodetti","The ratio of fish to broth is 1:1 — it should be a thick stew, not a soup","Each species contributes a different texture and flavour; the 13-species requirement ensures complexity"}
{"Scorpionfish (scorfano) is essential — its gelatinous bones create the sticky, enriched broth character","Bruschetta rubbed with garlic is served alongside to soak up the vinegar-bright broth","The day-before brodetto reheated gently is often better — the collagen has had time to set slightly"}
{"Substituting wine vinegar for white wine — it changes the acid profile entirely","Adding all fish simultaneously — the delicate fish overcooks while the firm species remains underdone","Too much broth — this is a stew that should barely cover the fish, not a fish soup"}
Cucina delle Marche — Giuseppina Pepe