Porto Recanati, Macerata, Marche
The saffron-yellow fish stew of Porto Recanati on the Marche Adriatic coast — the most golden and aromatic of all Italian brodetti, distinguishable by its mandatory use of saffron from Navelli (L'Aquila) and the local catch of mazzola (gurnard), seppia (cuttlefish), gamberoni (large prawns), and the prized cicala di mare (mantis shrimp). Unlike the Ancona version which uses wine vinegar, Porto Recanati uses no acid — the saffron's bitter complexity provides the counterbalance. White onion, garlic, olive oil, white wine, and saffron are the only aromatics.
Intensely golden, saffron-perfumed, oceanic from multiple fish, with the sweetness of prawn and the chewy-tender bite of cuttlefish — the most aromatic of Italian brodetti
Saffron must be steeped in warm white wine for 15 minutes before adding — this extracts both colour (crocin) and aromatic compounds (safranal) in solution, distributing them evenly through the broth. The fish sequence is strictly observed: cuttlefish (25 minutes), gurnard (15 minutes), large prawns (6 minutes), mantis shrimp (4 minutes). No stirring after fish is added — shake the pan only. The broth must reduce to a concentrated, yellow-gold consistency before serving.
True Navelli saffron (from L'Aquila, Abruzzo) is among the world's finest — its high safranal content makes it both more aromatic and more expensive than Spanish or Iranian saffron. A small amount goes a long way — 0.15-0.2g per 4 portions is sufficient. The finished stew should be consumed immediately — it does not reheat well as the fish overcooks on the second heating.
Adding saffron directly to the stew without pre-steeping — it distributes unevenly and takes too long to colour. Adding the delicate fish too early — they disintegrate before the cuttlefish is cooked. Stirring — breaks the fish pieces. Using saffron powder instead of pistils — powder contains filler and produces inferior colour and flavour.
La Cucina delle Marche — Ottavio Giossi