Porto San Giorgio, Marche
Porto San Giorgio's version of the Adriatic fish stew — distinct from the Ancona brodetto in using vinegar in the base and a fixed selection of 13 fish types, one for each apostle and Christ. Each fish type is added in a specific sequence to the pan and cooked in its own section of the pan without stirring — the organisation of fish by type is part of the tradition. Finished with a handful of fresh herbs. The acidity of wine vinegar in the base is what distinguishes Porto San Giorgio's version from its neighbours.
Acidic vinegar base; complex Adriatic seafood; each fish distinct in flavour and texture; herb freshness at finish; deeply maritime
{"13 fish types traditionally: scorpionfish, sole, cuttlefish, squid, mantis shrimp, clams, mussels, and other local Adriatic species","Build the base: soffritto with garlic, chilli, then add white wine vinegar (not wine) and let it reduce by half","Add fish from firmest to most delicate — cuttlefish and scorpionfish first (15 min), then all others in sequence","Each fish type occupies its own section of the pan — no stirring; they cook in the steam and broth of the base","Finish with fresh parsley and basil torn over at service — herbs are not cooked into the stew"}
{"The wider and flatter the cooking vessel, the more fish sections can be organised without crowding","The broth from the cuttlefish and scorpionfish forms the flavour base that all subsequent fish cook in — don't rush the first stage","Serve with grilled bread brushed with olive oil — the broth is excellent absorbed into the bread","A flinty Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is the canonical wine alongside — its mineral character mirrors the Adriatic fish"}
{"Stirring the pot — each fish must retain its identity; stirring creates a uniform mash","Using white wine instead of wine vinegar — the acidity profile is fundamentally different in this Porto San Giorgio version","Insufficient fish variety — the 13-fish tradition is part of the ritual; fewer fish types give a less complex result","Overcooking delicate fish while waiting for firm fish — the sequenced addition is the only way to achieve all fish cooked perfectly"}
La Cucina delle Marche — Dorino Guancini