Vasto, Chieti province, Abruzzo. The saffron connection reflects the proximity to the L'Aquila saffron-growing area inland — saffron from L'Aquila has been traded and used on the Adraiatic coast since at least the 15th century.
Brodetto di Vasto is the fish stew of the Vasto coast in southern Abruzzo — distinct from other Adriatic brodetti in using saffron and yellow pepper alongside the tomato base. The combination of saffron's golden colour, the sweet yellow pepper, and the Adriatic fish creates a stew that is brighter and more aromatic than most other Italian fish stews. Minimum five fish species are used, cooked in sequence by firmness.
The saffron-and-yellow-pepper combination creates a stew that is sweet, golden, and aromatic in a way that the more common tomato-only brodetti are not. The sweetness of the yellow pepper tempers the tomato acidity; the saffron adds a floral warmth. Against this backdrop, the mixed Adriatic fish flavours with particular clarity.
The soffritto is made with onion and yellow pepper (peperone giallo) cooked until soft in olive oil. Saffron is dissolved in white wine and added with fresh tomato (or passata). The fish sequence: cuttlefish and squid first (10 minutes), firm fish (scorpionfish, gurnard, ray) next (8 minutes), delicate fish and shellfish last (5 minutes). Never stir — shake the pot. The saffron must be added to the wine, not directly to the oil, or it will not dissolve evenly. The brodetto should be bright golden from the saffron.
The Vastese brodetto should have a slightly thick broth — not watery — from the collapsed tomatoes and the fish gelatin. The saffron makes the broth a deep golden colour. Serve with large slices of toasted country bread. If saffron from L'Aquila (Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP) is available, use it — it is one of the finest saffrons in the world, grown just inland from the Abruzzo coast.
Adding saffron directly to hot oil — it scorches and turns bitter. Using red instead of yellow pepper — the yellow pepper is specific to the Vasto variation. Stirring the fish — the cephalopods and fish break apart. Over-salting — the shellfish provide salt.
Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina; Elizabeth David, Italian Food