Ancona, Marche — the brodetto anconetana is documented in Ancona's port records from the 17th century. The 13 versions of Marchigiani brodetto (each port has its own) reflect the importance of the Adriatic fishing tradition to the Marche. The Ancona version is considered the archetype.
Brodetto all'anconetana is one of the 13 versions of the Marchigiani fish stew (brodetto is the diminutive of brodo — broth) — the Ancona version uses white wine vinegar as its acidifying agent (rather than tomato or lemon), producing a sharp, clean-flavoured broth that is quite different from the Port Recanati saffron version. The preparation requires at least 9 types of Adriatic fish: scorpion fish (scorfano), gurnard (capone/triglia), weever (tracina), cuttlefish (seppie), clams (vongole), mussels (cozze), mantis shrimp (canocchie), skate (razza), and other local fish. Each is added in order of cooking time. The vinegar acidifies the broth throughout cooking; the result is bracingly sharp.
Brodetto all'anconetana in the pot has a broth that is assertively sharp from the vinegar — clean, slightly sour, with the tomato providing colour and body. The Adriatic fish are perfectly cooked at their different stages; the mantis shrimp on top is the last addition and still slightly undercooked when the broth is served — residual heat completes it in the bowl. With thick-toasted Marchigiani bread, it is the most satisfying Adriatic fish meal.
Build the base: soffritto of onion in olive oil until golden; add crushed tomato (just a few tablespoons — enough for colour, not a tomato sauce). Add white wine vinegar (generous splash — the defining element); allow to cook briefly. Begin adding fish in order of robustness: cuttlefish first (15-20 minutes), then firm fish (scorpion fish, gurnard — 10 minutes), then medium fish (mullet, bream — 7 minutes), then shellfish and mantis shrimp (3-4 minutes). Keep heat very low — the broth should barely tremble, never boil. Season at end only. Serve in the pot with thick toasted bread.
The white wine vinegar should be good-quality — a harsh industrial vinegar makes the broth unpleasant; a wine vinegar with some complexity adds to the flavour. The pot should be heavy — terracotta is traditional and distributes the gentle heat evenly. In Ancona, the brodetto is served at the fish restaurant with everything in the pot and the diners serving themselves — the presentation is the pot itself.
Boiling the broth — vigorous boiling breaks up the fish and makes the broth cloudy and the fish dry; a gentle simmer is mandatory. Too little vinegar — the Ancona version should be noticeably sharp; a timid vinegar addition produces a generic fish soup. Adding all fish simultaneously — the different cooking times of the various species are the entire management challenge.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina