Friuli-Venezia Giulia — the lowland area between Udine and Pordenone. Brovada production is documented from at least the 16th century; the technique of using grape pomace for vegetable fermentation is unique to this region. DOP status granted in 2011.
Brovada is the extraordinary fermented turnip preparation unique to Friuli: white turnips macerated for 30-45 days in the grape pomace (vinaccia) left over from winemaking, during which a lactic acid fermentation occurs that transforms the raw turnip into something entirely different — purple-pink, tangy, slightly effervescent in freshness, with a flavour that is simultaneously sour, slightly bitter, and deeply complex. It is a DOP product of the Friuli lowlands and the essential winter vegetable of the regional table. It is eaten as a side dish after slow braising with pork, or raw in thin strips as a salad.
Brovada cooked slowly with pork fat loses its raw acidity and develops a complex, slightly bitter-sweet character — the sugar in the turnip caramelises; the lactic acid mellows; the grape tannins contribute a drying quality. Alongside musèt, the two flavours — rich gelatinous pork and tart fermented turnip — are one of the great winter combinations of Italian cooking.
The fermentation: clean white turnips (rape bianche di Friuli) are placed in wooden vats with alternating layers of grape pomace (vinaccia from the Friulian white wine pressing). Water is added to ensure the turnips are submerged. The vat is sealed and left at cellar temperature (10-12°C) for 30-45 days — the natural yeasts and bacteria in the vinaccia initiate a combined alcoholic-lactic fermentation. The finished brovada is sold whole or pre-shredded. To cook: grate the brovada into thin strips, cook slowly with pork fat (or pancetta) in a covered pan for 45 minutes to 1 hour until tender and slightly caramelised.
Brovada è musèt (fermented turnip with cotechino) is the defining combination — the rich gelatinous pork of the musèt (Friulian cotechino) is counterbalanced by the acidic, mineral brovada. The combination is almost medicinal in its effect on digestion. Shredded brovada served raw (dressed with olive oil and a little white wine vinegar) is the Friulian 'sauerkraut' — eaten cold alongside grilled meats.
Using wine-pomace from red grapes only — the DOP specifies white wine pomace, which provides different tannins and yeasts. Insufficient fermentation time — 30 days minimum is required; a shorter fermentation produces a raw, aggressively acid result. Over-washing before cooking — the surface acidic brine is part of the flavour; a brief rinse is sufficient. Cooking at too-high heat — brovada must be cooked slowly to develop sweetness from the residual starch.
Slow Food Editore, Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Cucina; Elizabeth David, Italian Food