Cabrales, Asturias, Spain
Spain's greatest blue cheese — made in the Picos de Europa mountains of Asturias from a blend of cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk (or occasionally cow's milk alone in summer), aged in the natural limestone caves of the Cabrales municipality where the humidity, temperature, and native Penicillium mould spores create the characteristic blue-green veining and powerful, pungent character. Cabrales DOP is among the most intensely flavoured blues in the world — more pungent than Roquefort, more complex than Gorgonzola. The aged examples (3-6 months in cave) have a paste that ranges from ivory to blue-green throughout, with a smell that is unmistakable: wet cave, lanolin, sharp cream, and intense umami. The taste is simultaneously sharp, salty, creamy, and deeply minerally.
Cabrales is sold wrapped in sycamore leaves (the traditional packaging) or in foil for commercial distribution — the leaf-wrapped version is more traditional and slightly more pungent. Serve at cool room temperature (14-16°C). The cheese should be brought from the cave to room temperature for at least 30 minutes before tasting. Pair with PX (Pedro Ximénez) sherry, Asturian natural cider, or with dark honey on dense bread. The intensity of Cabrales demands a sweet or acidic counterpart.
Cabrales is best purchased at source in Asturias — the caves of Arenas de Cabrales and Carreña de Cabrales are accessible to visitors during summer. The summer production (mixed milk, highest intensity) is considered superior to winter production. For cooking, Cabrales melted into a cream sauce for beef or venison is one of the definitive Asturian preparations — it adds extraordinary depth without flour or roux.
Pairing with a delicate wine — Cabrales overwhelms anything without significant sweetness or structure. Serving too cold — the flavours close completely below 12°C. Expecting it to behave like a mild blue — this is an extreme cheese.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden