Molise — throughout the region, associated specifically with Easter. Calcioni are prepared for the Easter table in virtually every Molisano household and represent the convergence of the spring ricotta season (ewes have been milking since late winter) with the Easter celebration.
Calcioni (also called calzoni dolci in some variants) are the definitive sweet pastry of Molise at Easter: small, half-moon shaped pastries with a short, lard-enriched pastry dough encasing a filling of fresh sheep's ricotta, egg, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest. They are fried in lard (traditionally) or olive oil until golden, then dusted with icing sugar or honey. The combination of the barely-sweet, rich pastry and the lightly sweetened, citrus-scented ricotta is one of the most satisfying expressions of southern Italian pasticceria — not cloying, not dramatic, simply correct.
The fried pastry is light and slightly flaky — the lard gives it a clean richness. Inside, the sheep's ricotta filling is lightly sweet, perfumed with cinnamon and lemon, with the characteristic slight tang of sheep's dairy. Under the icing sugar, they are small and deceptively substantial — one or two is enough.
The pastry: 500g 00 flour, 150g lard (or butter), 1 egg, 2 tablespoons sugar, white wine or grappa to bind (enough to form a smooth, firm dough). The filling: 500g fresh sheep's ricotta, 2 eggs, 100g sugar, zest of 1 lemon, cinnamon (1/2 teaspoon), and a small amount of liqueur (optional, traditionally a local Molisano spirit). Roll the pastry to 3mm. Cut discs (9-10cm diameter), place a tablespoon of filling on each, fold in half, seal the edges firmly with a fork (the classic 'forchettata' seal). Fry in lard at 175°C until golden on both sides. Drain on paper, dust with icing sugar.
Sheep's ricotta is essential — cow's milk ricotta is blander and has more moisture. Drain the ricotta overnight if possible. The lard pastry has a characteristic lightness and flavour that butter approximates but does not replicate — lard is worth seeking for this preparation. Calcioni keep well for 2-3 days and are excellent cold.
Filling too wet — if the ricotta is not drained (hang in cheesecloth 1 hour), the filling leaks during frying. Pastry too thin — tears at the edges when sealing. Oil temperature too low — the calcioni absorb fat instead of crisping. Not pressing the seal firmly — filling escapes into the frying oil.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Carol Field, The Italian Baker