Galicia, Spain
Galicia's daily soup — a thin but deeply flavoured broth of white beans, potato, pork ribs or lacón (cured pork shoulder), and grelos (turnip greens). Simple and correct: this is northern winter food, descended from necessity. The bitterness of the grelos against the pork fat and the starch of the beans and potato creates a balance that is both rustic and complete. Caldo gallego is not elegant and does not aspire to be. It is the food that sustained the population of rainy, poor, rural Galicia through winter. Its descendants are in every diaspora community of Galicia across South America.
Soak white beans overnight. Cook the pork ribs or lacón in cold water from cold — not boiling — which produces a cleaner, sweeter broth. The grelos go in last, 15 minutes before service — they must be al dente, not collapsed. Season only at the end once the pork has released its salt. Potatoes are broken rather than cut to release starch.
Grelos (turnip greens with their stems) are a winter ingredient — from December to March. Outside Galicia, young turnip tops or broccoli rabe are the closest substitutes. Some cooks add chouriço or morcela for deeper flavour. Serve with dense Galician country bread (pan de cea) and Ribeiro or young Mencía.
Using spring greens or kale instead of grelos — the bitterness profile is different. Over-cooking the greens — grelos should retain colour and texture. Seasoning before the pork is fully cooked — the pork releases significant salt during the long braise.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden