Guangdong Province — cha siu bao has been a Cantonese dim sum staple for centuries; it is one of the most recognised Chinese foods globally
Cha siu bao: the most iconic Cantonese dim sum — BBQ pork (char siu) filling encased in two versions: baked (baked bao with golden top that splits into a petal flower pattern); or steamed (fluffy white yeast-leavened bun). The baked version is a landmark of Hong Kong bakeries — the split top formed by scoring before baking. The steamed version is the 'Heavenly King' of dim sum.
Sweet, savoury char siu filling, soft dough — the quintessential Cantonese dim sum experience
{"Baked version: enriched dough (egg, lard, baking powder) produces the golden-brown top with distinctive split","The split top on baked bao is created by scoring three lines before baking — it blooms open during baking","Steamed version: yeast-leavened white dough must be proved fully before steaming — flat bao is under-proved","Filling: char siu pieces in a oyster sauce-honey glaze — not too sweet, not too salty"}
{"Baked bao gets its colour from egg wash — apply twice for deeper golden colour","The steamed bao split top ('laughing bao' xiao kou bao) is achieved by proving until light then steaming on maximum heat from cold","Some dim sum chefs add honey to the baked bao glaze — it creates a more complex caramelisation"}
{"Under-proving steamed bao — dense, flat, with gummy texture","Over-proving baked bao — no lift in the oven; the split doesn't open properly","Too-sweet filling — the char siu should be savoury-sweet, not candy-like"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop