Guangdong Province — the tong sui tradition is a cornerstone of Cantonese food culture; dedicated tong sui shops operate across Hong Kong
Tong sui (sugar water): the Cantonese tradition of warm sweet soups served as dessert — encompassing both light, clear sweet broths and thicker, starchier versions. Classics include: red bean soup, mung bean soup, black sesame soup, white fungus and goji berry, papaya with snow ear, tofu fa (silken tofu in syrup). Each tong sui has TCM medicinal properties — cooling (mung bean), blood nourishing (red bean), yin-nourishing (tremella).
Gently sweet, warm, smooth, with the specific flavour of the featured ingredient — nurturing and restorative
{"Sweetness from rock sugar (not white) for the authentic Cantonese flavour","Tong sui served warm, not hot — the gentle warmth is part of the aesthetic","Long simmer develops the starches and flavours — never rush a tong sui","Each ingredient's TCM property informs which dessert is served when — summer vs winter, warm-natured vs cool-natured ingredients"}
{"Black sesame soup: blend roasted black sesame with water, strain, simmer with rock sugar and a little rice flour for body","Tofu fa (silken bean curd dessert): freshly made soy milk set with gypsum powder (calcium sulfate) — extreme delicacy","White fungus (tremella) should be soaked, cleaned, then simmered 30 minutes minimum for a silky texture"}
{"Over-sweetening — tong sui should be gently sweet, not cloying","Using white sugar — rock sugar provides a cleaner, less harsh sweetness","Serving at boiling temperature — the delicacy of the ingredients is lost"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop