Sicily (especially Palermo)
Sicily's masterwork agrodolce vegetable stew: fried aubergine, celery, onion, and tomato combined with capers, green olives, pine nuts, sultanas, and wine vinegar-sweetened with sugar, then cooked together until everything melds to a complex, slightly saucy unified whole. Served at room temperature as an antipasto, with bread, or as a condiment alongside grilled fish. Every Sicilian household has its own recipe; the balance of sweet and sour is the fundamental variable. The dish improves dramatically over 24-48 hours.
Sweet, sour, rich from fried aubergine, with brine from capers and olives and sweetness from sultanas — a fully balanced agrodolce that captures the Arab soul of Sicilian cooking
The aubergine must be fried separately in abundant olive oil until deep golden before being combined — it must be cooked through and slightly caramelised, never steamed. The agrodolce balance (vinegar: sugar ratio) must be checked and adjusted before service — the sweet and sour should be equally present and neither should dominate. The celery provides texture — cooked briefly so it retains some bite against the soft aubergine. All components should be cooked separately before combining.
Salt the aubergine and let it drain for 30 minutes before frying — this removes bitterness (in older varieties) and reduces oil absorption. For the Palermo version: add a small amount of unsweetened cocoa to the agrodolce for a dark, bittersweet undercurrent. The dish freezes well and makes excellent bruschetta topping when slightly warmed from frozen.
Under-frying the aubergine — it absorbs oil during frying then releases it back into the sauce if not thoroughly cooked, producing a greasy result. Adding all components at once produces an indistinct mush rather than a layered dish. Not resting the dish — caponata served immediately after cooking is inferior to caponata 24 hours old. Omitting either the pine nuts or sultanas breaks the Arab-influenced sweet-savoury architecture.
La Cucina Siciliana — Mary Taylor Simeti