Cappelletti — 'little hats' — are Romagna's answer to Bologna's tortellini, and the distinction between the two is a matter of deep regional pride that has fuelled gentle warfare across the Via Emilia for centuries. Where tortellini use a meat filling, traditional Romagnol cappelletti are filled with fresh cheese: a blend of raviggiolo or squacquerone (fresh, creamy cow's milk cheeses from Romagna), Parmigiano-Reggiano, egg, and nutmeg. Some families add a small amount of ricotta. The shape differs from tortellini: cappelletti are formed from small circles of sfoglia rather than squares, folded into a half-moon, and then the two ends are brought together and pinched — creating a shape that resembles a small hat or a bishop's mitre. They are smaller than tortelloni but slightly larger and plumper than tortellini. Like tortellini, the canonical service is in brodo — a rich capon or mixed meat broth. The broth carries the same importance as in Bologna: it must be clear, golden, and deeply flavoured. Christmas dinner in Romagna without cappelletti in brodo is simply not Christmas. The cheese filling produces a lighter, more delicate result than the meat-filled Bolognese tortellino, and the interaction between the mild, creamy filling and the rich capon broth is a perfect expression of Romagnol simplicity — fewer ingredients, more finesse.
Use fresh Romagnol cheese (raviggiolo, squacquerone, or fresh ricotta) as the filling base|Mix cheese with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, egg, and nutmeg — the filling must be smooth and cohesive|Cut sfoglia into small circles (4-5cm diameter) rather than squares|Fold into half-moon and seal, then bring the two pointed ends together around the fingertip|Work quickly — the soft cheese filling makes sealing more urgent as moisture migrates|Serve in brodo di cappone — the same rich capon broth used for tortellini|Cook directly in the simmering broth for 2-3 minutes — they float when done
Raviggiolo is increasingly difficult to find outside Romagna — squacquerone is more available and makes an excellent substitute. If neither is available, a blend of very fresh ricotta and stracchino approximates the creamy, mild character. The cheese filling should be prepared the same day — unlike meat filling, it does not benefit from overnight resting. Some Romagnol families add a small amount of lemon zest to the filling — this is not universal but produces a lovely brightness against the rich broth. In Romagna, the leftover broth after eating the cappelletti is drunk from the bowl — this is not uncouth but expected.
Using the same meat filling as tortellini — this makes them tortellini in a different shape, not cappelletti. Using industrial ricotta instead of proper Romagnol fresh cheese — the flavour and texture are inferior. Making them too large — they should remain delicate, roughly 3cm across when formed. Sealing poorly — cheese filling is wetter than meat filling and more prone to leaking. Serving in sauce instead of broth — the canonical preparation is in brodo.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane (1967); Pellegrino Artusi, La Scienza in Cucina (1891); Accademia Italiana della Cucina — Romagna volume