Rome's Jewish Ghetto, Lazio. The technique was developed in the Ghetto — the area near the Tiber where Rome's Jewish community lived from the 16th century — using the kosher-compliant olive oil frying tradition. The carciofo romanesco, unique to the area around Rome, is the necessary ingredient.
Carciofi alla Giudia — artichokes Jewish-style — are the most famous dish of the Roman Jewish Ghetto kitchen: whole artichokes fried twice in olive oil until the outer leaves are completely crisp, spreading open like a sunflower, while the interior remains tender. The technique uses the Romanesco artichoke (carciofo romanesco — mammola variety): large, round, with a flat head, virtually thornless, with a tender choke that can be eaten entirely. The two-stage frying — first at a lower temperature, then at a higher — is what creates the simultaneous crisp exterior and tender interior.
The outer leaves, fried to a crisp, have a concentrated artichoke flavour — nutty, slightly bitter, rich. The interior is buttery-soft. The whole artichoke is eaten entirely — the crisp leaves are snapped off and eaten one by one. The effect is textural contrast within a single vegetable: crunchy, tender, sweet, bitter.
The artichoke must be a carciofo romanesco — other varieties will not open in the same way or be as entirely edible. Trim the outer tough leaves down to the pale yellow interior, pare the stem, turn upside-down and press firmly on the work surface to force the leaves open slightly. Season inside with salt, pepper, and optionally a little chopped parsley. First fry: 150°C olive oil, artichoke stem-up, 10-12 minutes until cooked through but not coloured. Remove, cool slightly, open the leaves further by pressing them. Second fry: 180-190°C, stem-up again, 3-4 minutes until the outer leaves are crunchy and browned. Drain and serve immediately.
The first fry can be done in advance (hours earlier) and the artichokes held at room temperature for the second fry at service. This is how Roman restaurants manage the dish during service. Wear gloves when trimming artichokes — the cut surfaces oxidise black on contact with air and stain hands. Trim into acidulated water (water with lemon) before drying thoroughly before frying.
Using globe artichokes — the wrong variety; they don't open correctly and the choke cannot be eaten. Not pressing the artichoke open between frying stages — the leaves remain closed and the second fry does not crisp them. First fry at too high a temperature — the exterior colours before the interior cooks. Second fry too brief — the leaves should be paper-crisp, not just golden.
Giuliano Bugialli, Foods of Rome and Lazio; Rachel Roddy, Five Quarters