Casoncelli (also casonsèi in Bergamasque dialect) are the filled pasta of Bergamo — large, crescent-shaped parcels with a filling that defies categorisation, combining minced beef or pork, breadcrumbs soaked in broth, Parmigiano-Reggiano, raisins, crushed amaretti biscuits, garlic, parsley, and sometimes pear or quince. This sweet-savoury-meaty-fruity filling is distinctly Bergamasque and reflects the same medieval taste for combined flavours seen in Mantua's tortelli di zucca. The pasta wrapper is standard egg sfoglia, rolled thin. Each casoncello is formed by cutting large circles (7-8cm), placing a generous amount of filling off-centre, folding into a half-moon, and creating a decorative pleated edge by pressing and folding the sealed rim. They are traditionally served with burro fuso, sage, and pancetta crisps — the pancetta rendered until crunchy, the sage fried in the pork fat, and the whole spooned over the cooked casoncelli with a generous grating of Parmigiano. The pancetta crunch, sage perfume, and the complex filling create a layered eating experience that is one of Lombardy's great hidden pleasures. Casoncelli are less known outside Bergamo than their Emilian cousins, but they represent one of the most technically interesting filled pastas in the Italian canon — the filling's combination of meat, fruit, and biscuit is unique.
Make the filling: sauté minced meat (beef and/or pork) with garlic and parsley|Mix with breadcrumbs soaked in broth, grated Parmigiano, raisins, crushed amaretti|Some recipes add chopped pear, quince, or candied fruit — the sweet-savoury balance is key|The filling must be cohesive but not wet — add breadcrumbs to absorb excess moisture|Cut large circles (7-8cm) from thin egg sfoglia|Place filling off-centre, fold into half-moon, seal and crimp with a decorative pleat|Cook in salted boiling water for 4-5 minutes — they float when nearly done|Sauce with burro fuso, crispy pancetta, and fried sage leaves|Finish with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
The Bergamasque filling traditionally includes pane ammollato (bread soaked in broth and squeezed dry) which gives body and a softer texture than breadcrumbs alone. Some families add a small amount of Bitto or Branzi cheese (local Bergamasque alpine cheeses) alongside the Parmigiano. The raisins should be soaked in grappa or Marsala before adding — this plumps them and adds aromatic depth. When rendering the pancetta for the sauce, cook it slowly until the fat is completely rendered and the meat is crisp — this takes 8-10 minutes over medium heat. The sauce is really a condiment: rendered pancetta fat, crispy pancetta pieces, fried sage, and a drizzle of the cooking fat over the drained casoncelli.
Omitting the amaretti and raisins — these are not optional additions but defining elements. Making the filling too wet — casoncelli must hold their shape during cooking. Sealing poorly — the large format makes them prone to opening. Using bacon instead of pancetta — the flavour profile is different. Serving in broth — casoncelli are a sauced pasta, not a brodo pasta.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane (1967); Accademia Italiana della Cucina — Bergamo