Palermo, Sicily — specifically the Norman royal court and the Arab confectioners who served it. The name derives from the Arabic 'qas'ah' (large round bowl — the traditional mould). The elaborate version dates to the 17th century Palermitano nuns who elevated the basic Arab-Norman confection to baroque excess.
Cassata siciliana is one of the great elaborate confections of world pastry: a dome of sponge cake soaked in Marsala, lined with marzipan (pasta reale), filled with sweetened ricotta studded with candied citrus peel and chocolate, covered in smooth royal icing (pasta reale) and decorated with baroque extravagance — candied citrus halves, crystallised cherries, geometric patterns of piped icing. It is a direct descendant of the Arab culinary culture that ruled Sicily from 827-1072 CE (the combination of marzipan, fresh cheese, citrus, and spice is Arab in origin). Its preparation requires 2-3 days.
The fresh ricotta filling is light and milky, sweet with the preserved citrus peel and dark with the chocolate — it tastes of Palermo in the way that nothing else does. The sponge absorbs the Marsala and becomes deeply flavoured; the marzipan exterior adds almond sweetness and a slight bitterness. The combination is baroque in every sense — rich, elaborate, excessive, and completely satisfying.
The internal structure: a thin layer of vanilla or citrus sponge, soaked in diluted Marsala or citrus liqueur, lines the sides and base of a round mould. Inside this sponge shell goes the ricotta filling: fresh sheep's milk ricotta (unsalted, drained overnight) beaten smooth with icing sugar, mixed with candied citrus peel, dark chocolate chips, and a tiny amount of cinnamon. This is covered with the remaining sponge, inverted, the exterior covered in a thin layer of bright green marzipan (pasta reale — Sicilian marzipan coloured with pistachio or spinach juice), then coated in smooth white royal icing. The decoration is elaborate and cannot be minimised.
Fresh sheep's milk ricotta can be drained by suspending in cheesecloth over a bowl in the refrigerator overnight — this removes the excess whey and makes the filling firm enough to hold its shape when cut. The green marzipan exterior is made with pure almond paste coloured with natural green (pistachio paste or blanched spinach juice). Cassata improves with 24 hours of refrigeration after completion — the flavours integrate.
Using commercial ricotta — the water content and flavour are insufficient; only fresh sheep's milk ricotta, drained overnight, will do. Skimping on the decoration — cassata siciliana is supposed to be extravagant; minimal decoration misses the cultural point. Not soaking the sponge sufficiently — the Marsala soak is essential for the sponge to soften to the right yielding texture. Making too small — cassata is a celebration cake; individual servings are not traditional.
Mary Taylor Simeti, Pomp and Sustenance; Elizabeth David, Italian Food