Milan, Lombardia
Milan's defining winter one-pot: pork extremities (rinds, ears, trotters, ribs, luganega sausage) slow-braised for 3-4 hours with Savoy cabbage (verza) in a base of onion, celery, carrot, and white wine. The collagen from the pork extremities gradually dissolves into the braise, creating a gelatinous, self-saucing consistency that glosses every piece of cabbage. Served with soft polenta that absorbs the braising liquid. Note: Cassouela was already entered — this is the authentic spelling variant and elaborated treatment.
Unctuous, porky, deeply gelatinous, with the slight bitterness of Savoy cabbage cutting through the richness — cold-weather cooking at its most satisfying
The verza (Savoy cabbage, not white cabbage) must be parboiled separately and excess liquid squeezed out before adding — it contributes enough moisture from its leaves without waterlogging the braise. The pork extremities contribute collagen that sets the braising liquid; this is non-negotiable. The dish must be cooked slowly at a bare simmer — rushing it prevents the collagen conversion. Tradition demands making it in the days following the November feast of Sant'Ambrogio.
The dish is almost impossible to overcook — 4 hours or 6 hours at a bare simmer produces similarly good results as the collagen has fully converted by then. For service, reheat gently and use a ladle to break up the set gelatin. The fat that rises to the top when cold can be skimmed for cooking — it is highly flavourful pork fat.
Using white cabbage instead of Savoy — the texture and slight bitterness of Savoy is integral. Adding too much liquid — the collagen creates the sauce naturally; adding stock makes it watery. Not resting the dish before serving — cassoeûla improves enormously overnight as the fat emulsifies into the braise.
La Grande Cucina Lombarda — Ottorino Perna Bozzi