Caviar d’Aubergine—a misnomer that has nothing to do with sturgeon roe but rather describes the glistening, jewel-like appearance of properly prepared aubergine purée—is Provence’s most elegant vegetable preparation, a silky spread of fire-roasted aubergine flesh folded with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. The technique centres entirely on the roasting method: whole aubergines are placed directly over a gas flame, on glowing charcoal, or under a blazing grill at maximum heat, turned regularly until the skin is completely blackened and the interior has collapsed into a soft, smoky mass. This direct-fire charring is non-negotiable—oven-roasting produces a pleasant but fundamentally different preparation that lacks the primal smoky depth that defines true caviar d’aubergine. Once the aubergines are collapsed (25-30 minutes over flame), the charred skin is peeled away while still hot, revealing the tender, smoke-infused flesh within. The flesh is placed in a colander and pressed gently for 15 minutes to drain excess liquid (this step concentrates the flavour significantly). The drained pulp is then chopped finely with a knife on a board—never processed in a machine, which breaks it into a baby-food purée—and folded with fruity olive oil (3-4 tablespoons), a crushed garlic clove, lemon juice, salt, and sometimes a pinch of cumin or a scattering of chopped herbs (flat-leaf parsley or mint). The finished caviar should have a rough, slightly chunky texture with visible strands of aubergine, glisten with olive oil, and taste profoundly smoky, sweet, and vegetal.
Char the aubergines directly over flame until completely collapsed—oven roasting is not equivalent. Drain the roasted flesh for 15 minutes to concentrate flavour and prevent a watery result. Chop by hand with a knife for proper texture—never use a food processor. Fold in olive oil generously—it provides richness, body, and flavour. Serve at room temperature for maximum flavour expression.
For the most intense smoke flavour, char over actual hardwood charcoal rather than a gas flame—the smoke compounds from wood are more complex. After peeling, if the aubergine flesh still seems watery, squeeze it gently in a clean cloth before chopping. For a Provençal variation, fold in a tablespoon of tahini (a nod to the eastern Mediterranean origins of the technique) and finish with a drizzle of pomegranate molasses—the sweet-tart note transforms the smoky base.
Oven-roasting instead of flame-charring, losing the essential smoky character. Not draining the cooked flesh, producing a watery, diluted spread. Processing in a blender to a smooth purée, losing the desirable texture. Using too little olive oil, resulting in a dry, fibrous paste. Serving cold from the refrigerator, which mutes the smoky flavour.
Provençal Cooking — Gui Gedda