Pan-Chinese banquet tradition — the cold dish course is standard in formal Chinese dining across all regions
Liang cai: the cold appetiser tradition of Chinese cuisine — multiple small cold dishes served before the hot dishes to stimulate appetite and cleanse the palate. Classic cold dish categories: marinated (lu wei), dressed (ban), smoked, pickled, and cold-braised. A proper Chinese banquet begins with 4–6 cold dishes arranged decoratively on a platter.
Varied — the cold dish course as a whole should offer contrasting flavours: sour, spicy, savoury, sweet, fresh
{"Cold dishes must be prepared in advance — they are about flavour infusion over time","Temperature contrast with the hot dishes that follow is intentional","Decorative presentation on platters is part of the cold dish tradition","Seasoning is assertive — cold dishes need more salt and acid than hot dishes to taste properly seasoned"}
{"Classic cold dish combinations: smoked tofu, preserved eggs, jellyfish, marinated cucumbers, cold pork","The cold dish platter traditionally reflects the region and season","Five-spiced (wu xiang) cold preparations are the most versatile — pairs with everything"}
{"Under-seasoning cold dishes — flavours dull at cold temperatures","Serving cold dishes at refrigerator temperature — should be slightly cool, not cold","Not allowing sufficient marinating time — flavours remain on the surface"}
Every Grain of Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop