Pan-Chinese — nian gao is eaten across all regions during Chinese New Year but varies dramatically in form
Nian gao: glutinous rice cake given as gifts and eaten during Chinese New Year — the name is a homophone for 'year higher' (年高), symbolising advancement year over year. Cantonese version: steamed round cake of brown sugar and glutinous rice flour, sliced and pan-fried. Northern version: flat rice cakes stir-fried with vegetables. Shanghainese version: cylindrical white rice cakes stir-fried in savoury dishes.
Cantonese: sweet, molasses-dark, chewy glutinous texture. Shanghainese: neutral, chewy, savoury
{"Cantonese nian gao: brown sugar dissolved in hot water, mixed with glutinous rice flour, steamed","Pan-frying the steamed Cantonese cake: slice, dip in egg, fry until golden — optional but popular","Northern nian gao (coated with bean paste and deep-fried) is a different preparation","Shanghainese nian gao (chao nian gao): stir-fry with pork and vegetables — not sweet, not a dessert"}
{"The egg coating when pan-frying creates a golden crust that protects the sticky interior","Sesame seeds pressed into the top before steaming add flavour and visual appeal","Chao nian gao (Shanghainese savoury) pairs beautifully with napa cabbage, pork, and dried shrimp"}
{"Confusing regional versions — Cantonese sweet vs Shanghainese savoury are completely different dishes","Over-steaming the Cantonese cake — becomes too sticky and collapses","Burning when pan-frying — high sugar content caramelises quickly"}
Every Grain of Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop