Northern/Central China — the Sichuan version is most authentic; it spread to Beijing restaurants and then worldwide through Chinese diaspora cooking
Suan la tang: the ubiquitous hot-and-sour soup of Chinese restaurant menus. The Sichuan version (the original): tofu, wood ear mushroom, lily buds, shredded pork, egg ribbons in a broth seasoned with white pepper, Chinkiang vinegar, and soy — the sourness from vinegar, the heat from white pepper (not chili). The Beijing-restaurant version has evolved to use chili — this is the more common international version.
Sharp sour, warming pepper heat, umami broth, silky egg ribbons, crunchy wood ear — a well-balanced hot pot of contrasts
{"Authentic heat: white pepper — it creates a different, more penetrating heat than chili","Authentic sour: Chinkiang (black) vinegar — more complex than rice vinegar","The egg is added as a thin stream while stirring to create ribbons, not clumps","Cornstarch thickening must be dissolved in cold water before adding — prevents lumps"}
{"The classic Sichuan garnish: toasted sesame oil drizzled just before serving","The ratio of sour-to-hot can be adjusted by each diner — have extra vinegar and white pepper at the table","Wood ear mushroom adds crunch and slight woodsy flavour — essential to the texture profile"}
{"Adding vinegar too early — prolonged heat dulls its flavour; add at end","Thick cornstarch — too much creates gluey, unpleasant texture","Scrambling the egg rather than creating ribbons — pour in a thin stream while stirring"}
Every Grain of Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop