Chinese Knife-Cut Noodles (Dao Xiao Mian)

Shanxi Province — the northern Chinese noodle-making capital; Shanxi knife-cut noodles are among China's most technically demanding hand-made noodle preparations

Dao xiao mian (knife-sliced noodles): Shanxi Province's signature noodle — a block of firm dough held against the shoulder and rapidly sliced directly into boiling water with a curved blade. The resulting noodles are thick-thin on alternating sides, chewy and irregular — impossible to replicate by machine. The best dao xiao mian chefs slice directly into a huge pot of boiling stock — an athletic performance.

• Japanese kishimen (flat wheat noodles)
• Italian pappardelle (wide pasta — similar irregular rustic quality)
• Korean knife-cut noodles (kalguksu)

Chewy, irregular, substantial — the noodle itself is the star; the sauce is secondary