Pan-Chinese — every region has its version; the concept of maintaining a 'perpetual' stock is ancient Chinese culinary practice
Lu shui: the continuously replenished master stock of Chinese braising — soy, dark soy, Shaoxing wine, rock sugar, aromatics (star anise, cassia, dried tangerine peel, sand ginger, cloves, Sichuan pepper, dried chili), and stock. Used to braise meats, tofu, eggs, and offal. Old master stocks in traditional restaurants are decades old and are among the most prized culinary assets.
Deep, dark, aromatic, umami-rich, sweetly spiced — the accumulated heritage of Chinese braising
{"The stock must be kept alive — use it, replenish it, never let it stagnate","Boil and cool between uses — prevents bacterial growth","Top up with fresh soy, wine, and aromatics after each use","The older the lu shui, the more complex the flavour — Maillard compounds accumulate over time"}
{"Store in the refrigerator between uses — lasts indefinitely with proper care","The fat that solidifies on top protects the stock below — skim it off and keep","Lu shui flavour intensifies with age — older stocks are more complex, darker, and more aromatic"}
{"Allowing lu shui to sit unused for weeks — risks spoilage","Not straining after each use — accumulated solids cause bitterness","Adding too much water for replenishment — dilutes the accumulated flavour"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop