Pan-Chinese — the concept of toasted spiced salt as a dipping condiment for fried foods is found across all Chinese regional cuisines
Jiao yan (Sichuan pepper and salt): the quintessential Chinese dry dipping condiment for fried foods — toasted and ground Sichuan pepper combined with fine salt. Applied to: whole fried prawns, soft-shell crab, squid, deep-fried pork chops. The Sichuan pepper contributes floral numbing; the toasted salt provides deep savoury flavour. Different from table salt — the toasting transforms it.
Numbing, aromatic, deeply savoury — elevates fried foods without obscuring the natural flavour
{"Sichuan pepper must be dry-toasted before grinding — raw Sichuan pepper is harsher","Coarse sea salt dry-toasted until slightly golden — this develops a deeper savoury character","Grind together while both are still hot — the heat helps integration","Ratio: approximately 4 parts salt to 1 part Sichuan pepper for balance"}
{"Make fresh for each service — the freshly toasted and ground version is incomparably better than pre-made","Some cooks add dried chili to the mix for a spicier version (la jiao yan)","The application method matters: dust from height, not sprinkle from close — more even distribution"}
{"Using raw, untoasted Sichuan pepper — raw, harsh, not properly aromatic","Over-grinding — should be a coarse mixture, not fine powder","Making too far in advance — the volatile aromatic compounds in Sichuan pepper dissipate within a few hours"}
The Food of Sichuan — Fuchsia Dunlop