Pan-Chinese — layered pancakes are found across China from Beijing to Shanghai to Taiwan; the technique of laminating dough with oil is ancient
Qian ceng bing: the flaky, layered Chinese pancake made by rolling and folding seasoned oil (scallion oil, sesame oil, five spice) into wheat dough multiple times. When cooked, the layers separate into distinct, fragrant strata. Related preparations: cong you bing (spring onion pancake) — the most common version; mutton-fat flaky pancakes in Xinjiang; sesame version in Shandong.
Flaky, scallion-fragrant, slightly oily, with distinct crispy exterior — a deeply satisfying textural experience
{"The layering technique: roll thin, oil, fold, roll again — repeated 4–6 times","The oil must be infused with aromatics — plain oil produces layering but no flavour","Cook in oil in a pan, medium heat — low heat dries out; high heat burns before layers set","Spring onion must be finely sliced — thick pieces cause the layers to burst unevenly"}
{"Twist the layered rope of dough before flattening to create spiral layers (the 'twisting' method)","Add minced garlic to the scallion filling for a sharper aromatic note","Serve with soft scrambled eggs and hoisin sauce — the classic breakfast accompaniment"}
{"Insufficient layering — few distinct layers; more folding = more layers","Too thick a pancake — should be medium thickness so all layers cook through","Cooking too quickly — layers need time to set and separate"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop