Fujian Province — the zao cooking tradition dates to Fujian's ancient rice wine production; it spread to Shanghai and Zhejiang through Fujianese migration
Zao (糟) cooking: the Fujianese and Shanghainese tradition of using fermented wine lees (the solid residue after pressing rice wine or grain spirits) as a cooking medium. Hong zao (red wine lees from red yeast rice) and bai zao (white lees) are the two main types. Hong zao is crimson-red and intensely flavoured; bai zao is milder. Both add fermented sweetness, umami, and subtle alcohol warmth to meats, fish, and vegetables.
Sweet, fermented, slightly alcoholic, with the red yeast's unique earthy-fruity character — deeply complex and regional
{"Hong zao: made from red yeast rice (hong qu) fermentation — produces crimson colour and complex flavour","Bai zao: white lees from regular rice wine — milder, less colour, more subtle","Use as a marinade, braise medium, or steam ingredient — each application differs","The lees should be diluted with Shaoxing wine and stock before use as a braise"}
{"Hong zao chicken (zao ji): chicken marinated overnight then steamed — one of the most distinctive cold dishes of Fujian cuisine","Hong zao is also used in Fujian to pickle vegetables — the red colour transfers beautifully","The combination of hong zao with fresh ginger creates a classic Fujian pairing for pork ribs"}
{"Using undiluted lees — overpowering fermented flavour","Confusing hong zao with Japanese sake lees (sake kasu) — the red yeast rice fermentation produces a very different product","Skipping the dilution step when braising — concentrated lees burn and become bitter"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop