Chou gui yu (臭鳜鱼, stinky mandarin fish) is the most discussed and controversial preparation of Anhui cuisine — a fresh mandarin fish (gui yu, also called Chinese perch) that is dry-salted and allowed to ferment at room temperature for 5-7 days before cooking, developing a characteristic strong aroma (described variously as pungent, funky, ammoniac, or deeply savoury) and a transformation in texture and flavour that is impossible to achieve by any other means. The fermented fish is then braised with Pixian doubanjiang, aromatics, and Shaoxing wine, producing a preparation where the fierce exterior aroma belies the complex, deep, almost luxurious interior flavour of the braised fish.
The fermentation: Use a whole fresh mandarin fish (500-700g). Scale and clean, leaving the gut intact (the gut enzymes participate in the fermentation). Rub the exterior and interior with salt (approximately 3-5% of the fish weight). Place in a ceramic container, covered but not airtight. Ferment at room temperature (18-22C ideal) for 5-7 days. The fish is ready when it produces a distinctive pungent aroma. The flesh should be firm (not mushy) and the skin should appear slightly duller than fresh fish. The braise: Rinse the fermented fish briefly. Fry in hot oil until lightly browned on both sides. Set aside. In the same oil, fry aromatics (ginger, scallion, garlic) and Pixian doubanjiang. Add Shaoxing wine, light soy, a small amount of sugar. Return the fish. Braise 15-20 minutes over medium heat. The finished braised fish should be deeply savoury and complex.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet (2023)