Ciccioli (also called grasselli or sfrizzoli in different Emilian dialects) are the crispy, compressed pork cracklings that result from rendering lard (strutto) — a by-product of the norcineria that has become a prized product in its own right. When fresh pork fat (lardo) and fatty trimmings are slowly rendered in a large cauldron (the traditional method) to produce strutto, the solid protein and connective tissue fragments that remain after the fat is liquid are strained out and pressed. These pressed, crispy, golden-brown morsels are ciccioli — intensely porky, salty, slightly chewy, and addictively crunchy. In Emilia-Romagna, ciccioli are eaten in two forms: the warm, freshly pressed version (ciccioli caldi, eaten standing around the cauldron during the annual pig slaughter, a social ritual as much as a food preparation) and the cold, compressed version (ciccioli pressati, formed into a block or loaf that can be sliced and served as an antipasto). The compressed version involves pressing the warm cracklings into a mould with some of their own rendered fat, which solidifies as it cools and holds the ciccioli together in a sliceable block. When sliced, the cross-section reveals a mosaic of brown crackling pieces held in a matrix of white solid fat — visually striking and utterly delicious. Ciccioli are the norcino's snack, the reward for the hard work of pig slaughter and processing, and their presence on an antipasto platter signals that the kitchen takes its Emilian identity seriously.
Cut pork fat and fatty trimmings into small, uniform pieces|Render slowly in a large, heavy pot — start at low heat to melt the fat without browning the solids|Increase heat gradually as liquid fat accumulates — the solid pieces fry in the rendered fat|Cook until the solid pieces are golden-brown and crispy — this takes 2-3 hours of slow rendering|Strain through a sieve — the liquid is strutto (rendered lard), the solids are ciccioli|For ciccioli pressati: while still warm, press the solids into a mould with some of the rendered fat|Season with salt (and sometimes pepper) while pressing|Let cool completely — the fat solidifies and creates a sliceable block|Slice ciccioli pressati 5-8mm thick for an antipasto platter
The traditional pig slaughter in Emilia-Romagna (la mattanza del maiale) typically happens in December-January, and fresh ciccioli are the first thing eaten — pulled from the strainer, salted, and eaten by hand while still sizzling. The quality of ciccioli depends entirely on the quality of the pork — industrially raised pigs with thin fat layers produce inferior cracklings. For the best texture, cut the fat into 2-3cm pieces — too large and they cook unevenly, too small and they become dust. In Emilia-Romagna, ciccioli are traditionally served with bread (gnocco fritto is the ideal partner) and a glass of Lambrusco. The rendered strutto from this process is the traditional cooking fat of Emilia-Romagna and is essential for making piadina, gnocco fritto, and many pastries.
Rendering too fast at high heat — the outside burns before the interior is cooked through, producing bitter cracklings. Not pressing firmly enough — loose ciccioli don't hold together when sliced. Adding too little fat when pressing — the block will crumble; adding too much makes it greasy. Underseasoning — ciccioli need salt applied while warm, when they can absorb it. Storing improperly — ciccioli keep well in the refrigerator for weeks but must be brought to room temperature before serving.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane (1967); Accademia Italiana della Cucina — various Emilian volumes