Emilia-Romagna — ciccioli are produced throughout the Po valley from the autumn pig slaughter. The preparation is ancient — it is the most economical use of the pork fat rendered for lard, producing a residue of crispy, flavourful pork that contains the Maillard products of the long rendering.
Ciccioli (grasini, sfrizzoli, or sfrizzuli in dialect) are the Emilian rendered pork fat preparation — the residue left after the lard is extracted from pork belly or back fat by slow rendering. The fat is slowly melted in a heavy pot over very low heat until all the liquid lard has been extracted and the remaining pork pieces have crisped to golden, slightly crunchy nuggets. These are the ciccioli — drained of excess fat, salted, and pressed into terracotta dishes or served loose. They have a texture between crackling and a deep-fried pork morsel, and a flavour that is simultaneously rich, slightly salty, and intensely porky. The Emilian tradition also makes ciccioli morbidi (soft ciccioli) — before the final crisping, the semi-rendered fat is mixed with salt and wine and pressed into a terrine.
Ciccioli warm from the pot, heavily salted and pressed into a terracotta dish, are one of the most satisfying savoury preparations in the Emilian canon. The texture is simultaneously crispy on the outside and slightly chewy within; the flavour is intensely pork, salt, and the slight bitterness of the Maillard crust. On warm piadina with a glass of Lambrusco, they are the Emilian aperitivo at its most direct.
Cut pork belly or back fat (with some lean) into 2-3cm cubes. Place in a heavy pot with a small amount of water (prevents burning at the start). Heat over very low heat — the initial water evaporates and the fat begins to render. Do not increase the heat; patience is the technique. The pieces gradually become submerged in their own rendered lard; the protein parts slowly crisp. After 2-3 hours, when the pieces are golden and crispy, remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper; salt immediately. Press into terracotta dishes while still warm for the traditional ciccioli duri; or reserve before full crisping for ciccioli morbidi.
The lard rendered during the ciccioli process is of excellent quality — strain and cool in terracotta; it is the best cooking fat for the Emilian kitchen. The ciccioli can be crumbled into bread dough (pane con ciccioli is a traditional Emilian enriched bread) or served as part of the affettati misti (charcuterie plate). Gnocco fritto made with ciccioli incorporated in the dough is an exceptional variation.
Heat too high — the fat chars on the outside before the interior is rendered, producing bitter, poorly textured results. Not starting with a little water — without initial water, the fat burns at the base of the pot before the internal temperature is reached. Salting too late — salt applied while the ciccioli are still warm penetrates more effectively; cold ciccioli salt only on the surface.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Emilia-Romagna in Cucina